Crossing The finish Line

Crossing The finish Line
Crossing the finish line of the Canadian Death Race shortly after 7 AM. 125 kilometres in 23 hours 21 minutes.

Sunday 1 July 2018

Mnt Hamel - Mother Nature, and Mother Grizzly

Most days when I wake up, I have a plan for the day. I know what Im going to do and roughly how the day will end.  Usually, the day goes as planned but sometimes the days seem to be out of our control.  When this happens, my tendency is to try to fix things and get the day back on track; but sometimes there are higher powers involved and we are left as just a piece of the puzzle that is life and destiny.
"Lisa Lauzon and I at the end of a day with a little too much
adventure!!  Glad to be able to take a selfie with each other"

Today started out as a normal weekend running day for me.  The 125 kilometre Canadian Death race is four weeks away, so todays plan included a 55 kilometre run on leg 4 and part of leg 5 of the race course.  This would be my last long run on the course and I was looking forward to getting some estimated running times for this portion of the course.

As with all long runs with our running group, we met at Tim Hortons in Grande Prairie at 5:45AM to car pool for the 2 hour drive to Grand Cache.  When everyone had arrived at Tim Hortons, there were 12 of us in the group and Dakota, a Border Collie/Lab cross.  There were some new faces in the group which always makes the long runs more enjoyable.  New people to share the old stories with!!

Several of us in the group are soloing the Death Race and some are running legs in the relay, so everyone's pace and goal for the day would be varying slightly.  Typically, the large group spreads out on the trail in smaller groups of 2 or more runners.  Very rarely does anyone run by themselves when we go for a group run.
"The whole group of us at the start!!
What an awesome bunch of running peeps right there!!"
Once we arrived at the leg 3/4 transition area and had the vehicles parked at the end of leg 4 where we planned to end our run, we started to run up the highway, to where the trail followed the power line into the bush.  Lisa and I were in the front with her dog which she mostly kept on a tether to prevent the dog from running too many extra kilometres and wearing herself out before the day was finished.

The first portion of the leg 4 trail up Mnt Hamel is a steady climb up a quad trail that is no longer passable on an ATV.  The aspen and willows created a good wind break for us as we continued to climb.  The trail is a clay/dirt trail, and I noticed that we were following some very fresh elk tracks and the odd deer track, but there was no bear sign.  It took us 55 minutes of power-hiking to reach the mine road and after a picture or two, Lisa and I continued on.  The next several kilometres follow an old mine road and are mostly downhill or level, so it is very runable and we were able to make up some time.
"This sign simply states the obvious....
maybe a little too obviously for today..."
After passing a red gate that is locked to prevent vehicle traffic from continuing, the trail started to climb again.  This time, in thick black spruce and balsam trees.  The rain storm that had passed through the night before, enhanced the unforgettable smell of the balsam trees and the sub-alpine flowers that were in full bloom.  The smells brought back fond memories from nearly 30 years ago, of hunting moose with my dad and brothers when I was growing up in the Yukon.  It seemed like many of these trips, I was just along for the good time and to get out in the woods... I wasnt yet old enough to shoot.  But dad always took the time to teach us how to hunt and survive with Mother Nature.

"The red gate"
As Lisa and I continued to climb, it got colder.  As the trees got shorter and the underbrush thicker, the cool west wind got stronger too.  The surface of the road was covered with large loose stones, and because of the steep incline, we were back to a steady power hike.  As we neared a sharp left hand corner in the road, we were just discussing stopping to put on our wind breakers.  The road bed was only ten or fifteen feet wide and cut into the side of the hill.  To the left, there was about a 2 foot cut bank up, then thick alder bushes which lead into the stunted spruce trees.  On the right hand side of the road, it dropped off steeply.  In most places, there was a small berm of dirt on the edge of the road, but here there was not.

Just as we were about to stop, we both heard a shuffling sound to our left, about 12 or 15 feet off the road.  The brush was much too dense to see what was making the noise, but we both suspected it was a bear.  Within a matter of seconds, the distinctive brown head of a grizzly bear rose up from the alders.  It looked at us for just a moment then started to run towards us through the thick underbrush!!!

Lisa and I both started to instinctively back up from the bear, close to the downhill side of the road.  When the bear came out of the bush, Lisa was behind me.  We were both yelling at it and I had my bear spray canister out and the safety lock removed.  The bear didn't even slow down!!!  When she was 4 to 6 feet away from me, I let off a  blast of the bear spray directly in the its face.  It veered sharply to the left of us and started to circle around behind.
"This was very close to were the bear
encounter happened.  It may have actually
happened at the far end."

Right after the sow came out of the bush, two of her cubs came out just to the right of us!!  They were not new born cubs.  There back was about waist high on me.  As they came towards us, I gave each of them a blast of the bear spray, but it didn't seem to deter them.  Now the sow was on our left and the two cubs were on our right!!  I instinctively realized that we were in a bad situation and tried to get the bears together while trying to stay close to Lisa and the dog, who was luckily on a short tether.  

At this point, it was just mass chaos!!!  The three bears were running in circles around us - never more than 10 or 15 feet away.  Whenever one of them would come close enough, I would give them another shot of spray.  All the while, Lisa and I are yelling at them and waving our arms, trying to back away from them.  Thats when Lisa slipped off the edge of the road, did a summersault, and landed in a bush, on her back with her feet pointing downhill.  The two cubs were on the road facing me so I didn't see it happen.  With one last blast of bear spray, I noticed that I was running out...I figured I had one more shot so I better make it count.

Still unaware that Lisa had fallen, I was asking for her bear spray because I was out.  Between the two of us yelling at the bears and swinging at them with my poles, she told me it fell out of her pack when she fell....she didn't know where it was!!!  Thats when I turned around and saw the predicament she was in!!

She was laying on her back with her head and shoulders just off the road.  Her lower body was between two scrubby spruce bushes, and all I could see was the sows head sticking out from under a spruce tree mere inches from her feet, and hear the sow moaning and growling at her....a sound that I have only ever heard in movies, but I will never forget!!!  

My attention was now completely off the two cubs.  I don't recall exactly what they were doing at this time, but I think they were still be running behind and around us.  The bank that Lisa was laying on was too steep for her to climb up backwards.  Because of the steep angle, while I was standing at the top, the bear was too far away from me for an effective blast from my dying bear spray canister, and I knew this would be my last shot with the spray.  Dakota was down the bank as well, near her feet.  With all the racket, I cannot remember what the dog was doing, but Im sure she helped IMMENSLY.  

The cubs were still running around and the situation was not improving for us.  I remember thinking to myself, "When will this END...when will they go away??"  My voice was starting to go hoarse from yelling at them and the sow just wouldn't get away from Lisa.  Finally, I realized I had to make a move as best I could to get the sow away.  I leaned over Lisa as far as I could and sprayed the last of the bear spray into the sows face which was right still right beside Lisa's feet.  

Some of spray must have gotten to the bear because she backed off, but I remember seeing the red peppery mist settle on Lisa and Dakota too!!  It seemed in slow motion....I thought I had made the fatal mistake of spraying them too!!!  In the lull of the commotion, I recall apologizing to Lisa and Dakota for spraying them.  Lisa assured me that she was ok.  

The lull didn't last long, the sow circled to my left and came back up on the road and came at us again!!  Lisa was now climbing up the bank onto the road.  As the bear neared us, I swung my pole at the bear and hit her in the neck, just behind her head.  I was out of bear spray and this was now our only defence.  The Black Diamond carbon fibre poles are lightweight, but I remember hearing the distinct "whoosh" of the pole when I swung it through the air as hard as I could, then felt the pole break when it hit the bear.  Lisa was now up on the road and was throwing large rocks at the bear as it veered to my left again.  

This time, it went back into the bush where it originally came out from.  We both picked up more rocks and threw them in the bush as we made our way walking backwards down the road.  For about a 100 meters, the bear followed us, just in the thick bush.  We continued to yell and throw rocks at it while we made our hasty retreat out of the area.  

Finally, there was silence....I looked a Lisa and she looked at me....her eyes were starting to water and swell from the bear spray and my throat was starting to restrict.  (Apparently, I inhaled some bear spray at some point.)  I could hardly talk, not to mention, yell any more.  We continued to walk backwards down the road and talk as loudly as possible.  Both of us were still carrying rocks.  Once we got some distance between us and the family of bears, we stopped and got our thoughts together.

We confirmed that there were no injuries other than over spray and Lisa had some bumps from falling down the hill.  For just a second we did consider continuing on back up the trail as planned...but then we both came to our senses and agreed it was best to find somewhere else to run.  

We started walking back down the road to meet up with the other group...all the while, rehearsing what had just happened.  

Everything had gone as good as possible for the circumstances:  We were both talking loudly even before we got to the bear.  Neither one of us had bear bells on, but I don't think that would have made any difference.  Im sure the bear heard us talking for a while before we got there.

We commented on how calm we both felt throughout the whole ordeal.  I was amazed at Lisa's calmness while the bear was literally at her feet.  She was definitely yelling at the bear, but I think I would have been screaming like a little girl if I had been laying there!!!  

That was my first time using bear spray on a bear.  It does have its limitations, but I believe it is very effective.  We both agreed that it is important to make SURE that your bear spray is ALWAYS very handy (and in a pocket that it won't fall out of if you do a summersault!!)  In the future, I will be carrying two bear sprays while I am running solo.  Typically, the bears that are going to come at you will be a sow and cubs, and one canister isn't enough for more than one bear.

After meeting up with the group we told them what had happened and headed back down to the highway.  Once at the "safety" of the road, the adrenaline seemed to wear off.  Lisa's eyes started to burn immensely from the bear spray.  We flushed them out as best we could with water from a hydration pack, but then decided it was best to taker her into the clinic in Grande Cache to get her eyes flushed properly.  

Because we were planning on ending our run on the other side of the mountain, all the other vehicles were about 7 kilometres down the highway.  So we headed that way.  I began to process what had just happened.  How close we really were to the bear, and how fortunate we were for that outcome.  I realized that today was not our day to die.  I looked at the stats on my running app and the whole encounter only lasted about a minute and forty five seconds.....but it seemed eternal!!

I often talk about the bond that runners get from spending so much time together....this is a perfect example of that.  Lisa and I worked together as a team with calm and methodical actions....but someone much more powerful than us was looking over us today.

Just yesterday, I was sitting in the airport in Edmonton, waiting for a flight home, and the thought came to me "Running will change your body; running trails will change your life" so I made a meme of that quote while I waited for my flight.  Little did I know how true that was....





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